Archive work

It helps to shop around :-) I am a member of a couple of model railroad forums, and sometimes some useful tips or help can be found there. I was looking for information on how to obtain drawings of the station building I want to build. To make a long story short, I eventually got in touch with the City of Davis, who were very kind to send me pdf drawings of the station building. I couldn't have asked for more. City archives, and historical societies are the places to contact if you're after drawings and other information when you're modeling something that isn't for sale.  The pic shows a snapshot of the drawings received, I'm reposting it here in general interest, and don't intent to break any copyright laws etc. Should I need to remove it, I will do so.

Model Railroad Tips

To kick of December, here's a nice little video on how to paint a boxcar (part 1). The author has a nice website too. Check it out.

California Northern trackplan revision

In order to increase operational interest, and in addition, to add some elements of the real CFNR in the mix, I've decided to make some changes to the east side of my trackplan. It has been extended along the right side (east) wall(roofline), and the station in the corner is now situated in the middle of a Wye (although the wye is not connected to the north side but dissapears from view). It is somewhat based on the arrangement in Davis, CA. This station is where the CFNR interchanges with the UP. It is an Amtrak stop (the Zephyr passes through here on the way from/to Sacramento) which will allow me to add some passenger action in the future, the interchange with UP is great as it allows me to add my UP loco's in the mix, and if you look at the real station building (google earth etc) it still has an old SP sign on its side wall, giving away it's heritage, so I could also add SP motive power with a little creativity.  Although I've added a few tracks on the west side for operational interest, I had to remove a few turnouts to the east side, but the general feel is still there. I hope to scratch build the pretty station building to some extend, although I may have to shorten and play a bit with it's dimensions to make it fit, but the aim is to capture it's feel.  The new trackplan can be seen above (click on it for a bigger view), the station building below.

Working with Styrene

Styrene is a great material to use for scratch-building structures and the like. As always, for the best results there are a few things you must prepare.
- Good and bright lighting
- A stable clean work surface
- Decent tooling
To cut styrene, I use a hobby mat, which prevents the material from slipping. (you could use masking tape to stick it down in the corners). Make sure it's clean. Additionally I use a steel ruler, which is much straighter, and will not get damaged by the sharp blade of the knife. If you can find one with a cork backing, then that's great as it will resist slipping on the relatively slippery surface of the Styrene. Use a new or very sharp hobby knife or scalpel (be careful, it is extremely sharp remember?) Be relaxed and patient in cutting, it will result in cleaner cuts, and prevent injuries! (sharp knife, anyone? ). Make sure the work surface is well lit so you can see what you are doing.

I usually make a drawing on a sheet of paper of my subjects, then lay the styrene over the top. Most styrene sheets are thin enough to see through. If not, then draw directly on the styrene with a HB grade pencil, instead of a marker pen. Mistakes can then be rectified.
A few more tips:
- Always put the ruler along the outside of the edge your cutting when doing doors and windows, for walls usually the inside (to protect the wall). This way, in the event your knife slips, it will slip into the material that you are cutting away, and not damage the part you want to keep.
- Put minimal pressure on the knife, and make multiple cuts along the same line. It is sufficient to only cut until it's about 3/4 to 4/5th through the material, the last bit can easily be snapped off by gently bending the styrene along the cut. (this way you also keep your drawing below undamaged, and prevent injuries)
- For windows and doorways, it is best to make two diagonal cuts, and around the edges, then pierce the center of the window. You can then gently 'wiggle' each triangle until it snaps away, preventing tears into the surrounding styrene.
Once again, these knifes are very, very sharp, so be patient, focus, and take your time! Don't blame me if you hurt yourself, you have been warned! (sorry for these rants, but people get sued for stupid things nowadays, and I don't want to be one of them......)
The pictures shows some of my tools, a warehouse wall, with drawing below it (notice the window cut pattern on the left).
Enjoy your modeling!

New Poncha Yard

While I am working on buildings/structures at present, someone via another railroad forum pointed out this: A switching layout made by some Belgian Modelers. The layout is called New Poncha Yard. The buildings are all build with card stock, no commercial kits, only windows and other small details are commercial parts.
The large buildings really give a lot of perspective and sense of reality.



More on the layout at: http://newponcayard.webs.com/

Structure modeling with Google and Bing

Time to focus the attention to the things we find along the rails, or better those that give reason for it's existence, buildings, industries,towns etc! The scenery on my home layout has been a bit neglected recently with me keeping busy with loco's, but now that I've got a few with sound that run well, it's time to move onwards. I've been browsing in towns with Google earth , and also industrial locations of the area I want to model, taking screenshots from interesting buildings etc, going into street view and try to get a few shots from various angles and now in the process of converting them to scale. This is not an exact process (a lot of buildings are much larger than you could actually afford/have room for) but try to capture their essence.
There are certain things you can use for reference, the size of a door for instance. These are roughly similar in size (an adult will have to pass through comfortably) so get a reasonable size and 'guestimate' the other dimensions more or less, using some 'selected' compression here and there. For example a warehouse with 4 cargo doors for delivery trucks etc, can be scaled down to make a version with only 1 or 2 doors, and still feel realistic.
I'd recommend to try it yourself, it's a very handy tool if you model the modern era!

High hood GP38-2 switching

When I posted yesterdays video, I came across the below video of another GP38-2 model doing switching duties on a great looking model railroad.
This GP38-2 is a high hood type. Enjoy the great detailing of this layout.