tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7103310046882676562023-11-16T02:54:08.081-08:00North American Model Rail RoadingHelping you model North American railroadsT Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02640155842325267145noreply@blogger.comBlogger347125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-710331004688267656.post-81141347391993014462016-02-03T04:32:00.002-08:002016-02-03T04:32:37.738-08:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
A bit of fun:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhtOnPrRE5hcYv6AqFKkwKMdu8jIDjnhiAKKLPBvHvSJQOs0Ni0S3W8IEHEwFphAPzekcIwCqI_XKlGbTCMXgPGcqGtQauJ_pK8iQIk0ZoBhf6QsDKh6ysztMbeIF7VnMmX8UkB9XjSwGa/s1600/Heboughtatrain.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="310" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhtOnPrRE5hcYv6AqFKkwKMdu8jIDjnhiAKKLPBvHvSJQOs0Ni0S3W8IEHEwFphAPzekcIwCqI_XKlGbTCMXgPGcqGtQauJ_pK8iQIk0ZoBhf6QsDKh6ysztMbeIF7VnMmX8UkB9XjSwGa/s320/Heboughtatrain.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
T Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02640155842325267145noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-710331004688267656.post-69382679658223139382016-02-03T00:46:00.005-08:002016-02-03T00:46:52.192-08:00Two times GP30 finale<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Well I did state in my original post that I was going to take my time, and it worked out that way.<br />
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But I'm pleased to report that I've finished the project 99.9%. They have been equipped with Loksound Select decoders, two speakers each, and microleds for lighting. The remaining work is a little weathering of the couplers and uploading the correct sound file to them. Currently they have an incorrect EMD645 Turbo sound, but ESU is due to release the correct EMD567 Turbo sound file sometime during this month, and they will both then receive the correct file.<br />
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Here are two side views of both units.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd-AuO-3BherJ9gk0ZEGZ9-6MjMOgwZFq70q-LeTp_9MEgpwQlU8YmD_t-PBvnFnQ1VqAQQOaDKoNPUz-QSRA-DTFH-rDvq9sIeCVvEC0KgcfRzb_4O2GJu9pvZ-BkZTOQV6iNCkmb4BgC/s1600/24160431934_98a371a4c9_o.jpg" imageanchor="1"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn8ZoanQfkghUTXKstOrDuGgamdpYOKNlKXHcxM8NFl0sJ_GWmGxcPI2cbRCNX7QlBcLk_GGp-ykTQ7LyYQ_A5DNFdaQ0V27rFbn-WNwQZ1trAWwVWZNK7-C90_6N8XSF4QwJjwheZhxFn/s1600/24762361966_a3e66bb4a6_o.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn8ZoanQfkghUTXKstOrDuGgamdpYOKNlKXHcxM8NFl0sJ_GWmGxcPI2cbRCNX7QlBcLk_GGp-ykTQ7LyYQ_A5DNFdaQ0V27rFbn-WNwQZ1trAWwVWZNK7-C90_6N8XSF4QwJjwheZhxFn/s320/24762361966_a3e66bb4a6_o.jpg" width="320" /></a><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd-AuO-3BherJ9gk0ZEGZ9-6MjMOgwZFq70q-LeTp_9MEgpwQlU8YmD_t-PBvnFnQ1VqAQQOaDKoNPUz-QSRA-DTFH-rDvq9sIeCVvEC0KgcfRzb_4O2GJu9pvZ-BkZTOQV6iNCkmb4BgC/s320/24160431934_98a371a4c9_o.jpg" width="320" /><br />
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Thanks for looking.<br />
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T Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02640155842325267145noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-710331004688267656.post-57634566665322097772015-07-09T05:25:00.002-07:002015-07-09T05:27:12.724-07:00Two Times GP30<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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My next project:<br />
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Build two models of a GP30, one Cotton Belt, one Southern Pacific, using the Lifelike / Walthers GP30 HO model.<br />
A good friend of mine recently asked me to build / detail a GP30 for him. In return for my efforts, he'd give me a second GP30 model, to keep, as long as I detail that too.<br />
I had to think very hard for the next 2 seconds, and then accepted. <br />
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So here are the locomotives, one is a Lifelike, one a Walthers (one is B&O, the other KCS). I will try to take my time with these, but enthusiasm may well get the better of me. <img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/proxy/AVvXsEghX5X5LnAZaps9tnLJtGIXILC3KJaJNUR0Q9oapB-DVX0TxRTs0qabnDgcKBRutCG2gdwxX3rYkrpPW4uh6_70ab2HrhVCAkYkCUQI-N7ASEqCnR5ZfK46D85OrSl0YmszXA4oo8GNwXKJVz3Rj6OUeQVPOtKP_gIdI2FO3HmgJ7sArjuRJq68DOKoll0" /><br />
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I still had another Lifelike Proto 2000 locomotive in a drawer that I intended to turn into a Southern Pacific locomotive.<br />
I decided I try to make a reasonable representation of a phase 3 GP9 (recognised by it's 3 large fans on the long hood, as opposed to 4 small and 1 large) after rebuild , turning it into a GP9E, and this one was equipped with a Farr filter housing on the long hood.<br />
The other 'unusual' spotting difference is that it never had the typical SP light package. 3816 was delivered to the T&NO subdivision and had a standard light package, and later in it's life received a roof beacon. This is how I modeled it. It is almost done. I still need to install Kadee couplers, numberboard lettering, and weather it, but everything else (including ESU loksound decoder, Sugarcube speaker, and LED lights ) has been done.<br />
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T Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02640155842325267145noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-710331004688267656.post-39497334833679094782015-05-20T05:02:00.001-07:002015-05-20T05:04:23.208-07:00TCS WOWsound decoders<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br /><br /><br />Below a quick review/first impression of the TCS Wowsound decoder (diesel version).<br /><br /><br /> I recently completed a Lifelike SD9, in which I installed such decoder (bought mine from Coastal DCC), my version had keep alive attached, as a longer loco like this has more space.<br />The irony is that small locos benefit the most of it, but they haven't got the space, but that's life..<br /><br />Back to the Wowsound. After installation, I did my usual thing, set the loco on a programming track and fired up Decoder pro, to do some of the set up. It turns out that is not the best thing to do, as the decoder definitions available are not yet completely bug free, and struggle a bit with all the indexed CV's that this (and other) decoders use. <br />I ended up messing the decoder up a bit and it didn't respond as I wanted it to, so I performed a factory reset. I then used my DCC system (Lenz) in programming track mode and programmed the basic settings in the loco, such as it's address. <br /><br />I then proceeded to try and set up the rest using the audio assist function. I have to say, listen carefully and it all makes sense. It is very, very easy to do and very powerful.<br />Using this, I was able to assign the desired combination of function button, output wire, lighting effect , and conditions (fwd, rev, both directions active) etc.<br />I then followed the instructions to calibrate the locomotive for prototype operations. This is an easy two step process too.<br /><br />The powerful thing is that you can toggle the function buttons to perform different tasks, they are divided in light mode and sound mode. <br />Lets say the decoder is in light mode, pressing F2 would activate a roof beacon if that's what you have programmed it to do. A double press on F8 will toggle it to sound mode, and then F2 will operate the bell for example. (The toggling does default give you audible feedback on which mode you select, but turns out this can be disabled, and I prefer that. Leaving this on initially, is probably good until you get used to the way it works).<br />This is useful for throttles that have a limited amount of function buttons available, and/or saves you trying to scroll down to higher number functions.<br /><br /><br />In prototype mode, the loco behaves more like the real thing. Leaving the controls in light mode therefore will mean that when you increase the throttle , nothing happens..<br />Why not? That's because you haven't released the brakes, and they are tied in with a sound effect, which in turn is in sound mode..<br /><br />So switch to sound mode, press F6, hear the brake release hiss and presto the engine revs up and smoothly departs to the speed you have set. The Engine Notches will respond to the load, so a light engine, will not rev up as high and as long as when it is trying to move a long heavy train. Very nice!<br /><br />The sound files in the decoder are of very good quality, and at least on a par with the newest loksound files. Very clear, very realistic. <br /><br />Is there something negative to report? Depends.<br /><br />I am not a fan of 'directional lighting'. I want independent control of my lights. (when switching in the yard, I want both lights to be able to turn on, no matter which direction I travel). With the exception of the white and yellow output wires , all is free programmable, but these are default set for front and rear lights, which are activated by pressing F0. <br />However there is a work around. I connected my headlight to the white wire , activated by F0, but was able to set that effect for 'BOTH directions'. I then did not use the yellow output (as it would have worked at the same time as far as I can figure out at this time), so I used the next (GREEN) wire for the rear light. I gave that the constant bright light effect too, for both directions, and assigned to F1, with F2 assigned to purple for my roof beacon. <br />It means that I've lost one output wire, but with the decoder having 8 function output wires, I don't miss it, I still have spare capacity. <br /><br /><br />What remains to be seen is how well I would be able to speed match this loco through it's speed range with other decoders, but that would also mean switching it to 'traditional' throttle mode, which makes the decoder respond like any other decoder, turn up the throttle, the loco moves, turn it down it stops. <br />In prototype mode, as mentioned above, it works like the real thing, with throttle (engine notches depending on load) doing the speed, but only when the brakes are released. Switching the throttle to 0 means the loco keeps on going, very slowly losing speed, but it doesn't really begin to decellerate until you apply brakes, and how much brake force you apply. One press is 20% braking, and subsequent presses increases it by 20% until it comes to a hold.<br />Dynamic brakes (if the loco has these set up, on by default) also work, the engine can be heard reving up, as is the dynamic brake fan, and the engine slows down too. But be careful. Releasing it without turning the throttle down means the engine will speed up again.<br /><br />All in all, it brings a new dimension to operating your loco, and one I wholeheartedly recommend you try out for at least one of your locomotives.<br /><br />Koos</div>
T Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02640155842325267145noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-710331004688267656.post-5336860285835211482015-05-15T00:49:00.003-07:002015-05-15T00:50:22.515-07:00Downtown Deco<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Fancy something different from the usual DPM, Walthers city buildings?<br />
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Want to build something a bit more challenging, and realistic looking.<br />
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Have a look at Down Town Deco buildings. These are made of Hydrocal / Gypsum, and when finished look very realistic. What's more, they offer some designs suitable for more run down areas of town too. I really like these.<br />
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http://www.downtowndeco.com<br />
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I've added a link in the list to the right too.<br />
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T Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02640155842325267145noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-710331004688267656.post-56485801206341953282015-03-18T04:13:00.002-07:002015-03-18T04:18:51.757-07:00CFNR SD9<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
As you know I also model the California Northern.<br />
I'm always on the lookout for models, and now found one online. I have another SD9 myself that I need to repaint and detail in similar colours, but here is no 202. Painted and detailed by Sean Bartlett.<br />
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The CFNR had 4 of these, two were ex Southern Pacific (numbers 202 and 203), and two were ex DM&IR (numbers 200 and 201). The SP's are recognised by the remnants of their light packages, while the others can be recognised by the remaining nose bell, and smaller fuel tanks.<br />
They left the CFNR roster by the end of 1997 after they were no longer needed due to a downturn in traffic from Willits (Lumber) and the closure of a pipe manufacturing plant. At least two still survive, but were repainted, and had their short hoods replaced by low noses, working for an industrial customer. The fate of the others is unknown to me at this time.<br />
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T Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02640155842325267145noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-710331004688267656.post-62199193953814285112015-03-06T02:45:00.000-08:002015-03-06T02:45:42.403-08:00Lasercut Structure finished<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
It's done. <br />
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Eventually it will be mounted on my module or layout , but I made the deadline of the building challenge, and I have another finished structure. :-)<br />
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T Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02640155842325267145noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-710331004688267656.post-91161687257002857932015-02-06T03:59:00.000-08:002015-02-06T03:59:24.567-08:00Building a laserkit structure<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
One of the (too) many projects I've got going on at this moment is the construction of a laser kit wood crafstman structure. It is Grantham's by JL Innovative Designs.<br />
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I am building some structures for a module board I have, and it ties in nicely with a modeling challenge I'm participating in.<br />
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Here's a picture:<br />
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I have to say that the construction of a wood kit is not much more difficult than a plastic one. It just requires some different tools and glues.<br />
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Also painting is different in that wood , being a natural product could warp if you use a water based paint. Solvent based works best. Once you know this, no problems.<br />
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Here's the structure as it is currently, still a lot to do, but the deadline for the challenge is in a few weeks, so I should be able to complete it relatively comfortably.<br />
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T Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02640155842325267145noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-710331004688267656.post-51257176355444789582015-02-06T03:50:00.002-08:002015-02-06T03:50:59.694-08:00I play with trains<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br /><br />I like trains. <br /><br />In particular I like American trains, and even more specific, I like American model trains. It’s one of my hobbies and pastime as far as my memory goes back to the age of 3 or 4. <br /><br />Why am I ‘coming out’ and let you know? <br /><br />I recently was discussing with a work colleague the lack of skilled labourers and engineers coming out of schools and into the workplace. It appears most of them seem not know how to handle a screwdriver, let alone be able to put up a shelf ‘plumb’, or are at the very least, very uncomfortable with it. <br /><br />I concluded that this must be due to the fact that they are not really exposed to that type of technology from an early age. <br /><br />Computers is another matter, they all know at least the basics of IT skills, and many know how to write programs, develop apps etc. Develop virtual worlds on game consoles etc.<br /><br />That’s all very well, but that shelf is not going to put itself up, that wiring is not just magically there (believe it or not, but wireless technology needs wires to work) , and that engine is not going to get its head gasket replaced with the press on some touch screen. It needs a pair of hands, a good eye, skills and the right tools to complete that job.<br /><br />It is my belief that our children are not exposed to the right toys that may spark an interest in engineering and technology to the same extend as I was when I was growing up. <br /><br />Walk into the average toy shop, and you will often struggle to find things like Meccano, wooden ships , model railways, technical Lego. Plastic kits, RC modelling supplies , etc. Part of that is due to the fact that the likes of Toys-R-Us are big chains, interested in volume and quick turnovers. Toys like the above are often on the shelf longer, and that is not what they want, that’s not good for their business model. <br /><br />So you have to find speciality shops, and that is not somewhere a parent would walk into with their children, they are hardly ever in the high street. <br /><br />When was the last time you walked in a shopping mall, or high street , passed a toy shop, and saw a train running rounds on an oval track, kids glued to the window watching it go round, a big Lego or Meccano crane in the corner etc etc. <br /><br />Instead, it’s a big bundle of ‘toys’ which are heavily promoted on the TV, Disney channel etc. They leave very little to the imagination, and the staff walking around in these shops often have no knowledge of the type of toys I’m referring to. <br /><br />It’s time that is turned around, to show children there’s more than ‘My little pony’ ‘transformers’ ‘Disney toy story’, and game consoles. <br /><br />My example, model railways, is an extremely diverse hobby. It is multi facetted, it can involve woodwork, electrical engineering, fine mechanics, digital technology including computer control, and creative work such as painting and sculpting etc . In the US it promoted by a model railway organisation and publishers as ‘The Worlds Greatest Hobby’ , due to the many aspects involved. <br /><br />The ‘toy trains’ spark an interest in the real thing, and as children grow up, they will start to wonder how they work, and from there an interest in various engineering technologies may be developed. <br /><br />Playing with ‘toy trains’ gradually evolves in the desire to build a more and more accurate model of the real thing, it could involve railway automation, digital sound and lighting controls, logistics (time tables and freight routing), and realistic looking landscapes, all the while developing their related skills. <br /><br />Similar development will happen with other types of technical toys, and it may through play, lay the foundation for a future career in an engineering profession, or a related professional skill, the likes of which are currently in high demand (and seemingly under valued by society, but that’s another topic). <br /><br />All of this won’t happen if children do not get exposure to ‘technology’, ff adults remain ‘secretive’ about their hobbies for fear of being called a ‘train spotter’ a ‘foamer’ or ‘nerd’. <br /><br />It depends a little on the country but in the UK it seems when you have a model railroad, you have a ‘train set’, have no relationships, you live with your parents , and spend your times on a railway platform wearing an anorak, and wielding a notebook and pencil. While those types exist, the vast majority is not like that. <br /><br />Being interested in model trains actually means that you are in good company: Rod Stewart, Elton John, Frank Sinatra, Tom Hanks, Bruce Springsteen, Neil Young, Tim Berners-Lee, Donald Sutherland, Pete Waterman, Roger Daltrey are just some famous celebrities and scientists involved in that hobby, and are generally looked up to or admired. <br /><br />So if you are too, let the world know. <br /><br />Once the interest is there, the demand will grow, the toy shops will start stocking it again, and future generations will have sufficient electricians, carpenters, mechanics and engineers in place to help build a prospering economy. At the same time, they might just have gained a great hobby that brings a distraction from demanding jobs. <br /><br />And me, I can say ‘ I play with trains’, what’s your secret?<br /><br /> <br /><br />If you have a technical hobby, do you dare to share? </div>
T Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02640155842325267145noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-710331004688267656.post-40968472619188655512014-12-23T05:16:00.001-08:002014-12-23T05:16:55.536-08:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo7qrVhcjMLGmxTA1l42id2_S8NrgD2VJkyOMXZow1hmcXhFjjXqlK6OtUI_I0yhEPvuPPJYkoL7YlFINXMz1wlFJp2-RuLRf2tOXPHPGYc2_ybwj4QPXWhrIGyw1f7Eoo1d-poUP6ErTf/s1600/santa+train.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo7qrVhcjMLGmxTA1l42id2_S8NrgD2VJkyOMXZow1hmcXhFjjXqlK6OtUI_I0yhEPvuPPJYkoL7YlFINXMz1wlFJp2-RuLRf2tOXPHPGYc2_ybwj4QPXWhrIGyw1f7Eoo1d-poUP6ErTf/s1600/santa+train.jpg" height="320" width="220" /></a></div>
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year everyone!<br />
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T Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02640155842325267145noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-710331004688267656.post-34026327259269152152014-09-08T02:47:00.001-07:002014-09-08T02:47:21.913-07:00The R's back in the month<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
...and days are slowly drawing shorter. This means more time for indoor activities.<br />
I had an area on my home layout that was never operating reliably enough. The first turnout after the curve was too close to that curve, and caused some derailments sometimes. Also my method of mounting my turnout motors in that location didn't work out too well.<br />
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Therefore I took the drastic step of tearing them out. I'm removing the Woodland scenic roadbed here too, which will be substituted with a strip of plywood of similar height. The turnouts are being mounted directly onto it, and the turnout motors to the bottom of that strip.<br />
This means I'll be cutting slots in the foam board that makes up the surface of my layout, and the turnout motors will be recessed into this. Two advantages:<br />
I can make the entire construction at a workbench and test it before install.<br />
There won't be any motors sticking out from beneath the layout.<br />
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Below is the start of the work.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglDRkTE1FeMxW2ufiLN-zA1jcWJrgw35rhBsUdDpUrQa-UngNNE9NEzMs77Eb0uqk7B-g929l-u993CJccnb0I74GoOgObzKLUYqzzOk_X5IHGwxdZgZxZShqujJKJwAd2KPzMOG1qDj0S/s1600/Turnout+napa+Jct.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglDRkTE1FeMxW2ufiLN-zA1jcWJrgw35rhBsUdDpUrQa-UngNNE9NEzMs77Eb0uqk7B-g929l-u993CJccnb0I74GoOgObzKLUYqzzOk_X5IHGwxdZgZxZShqujJKJwAd2KPzMOG1qDj0S/s1600/Turnout+napa+Jct.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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T Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02640155842325267145noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-710331004688267656.post-74747329581844423282014-09-08T02:39:00.001-07:002014-09-08T02:39:08.390-07:00Another boxcar in distress<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I'm on a roll, here's another boxcar I weathered in the past week.<br />
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Before and after pictures below.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqSMtD0OwPIZO52R5GiRyxRFBZpD4E-UuATLBDZajLGSC90FifFxbtVxXs1nDQMk6JueJg7arDBkj_5zBLyoQjapY09dJ3CQYzAkxaRzThs-PuVNimicaUEVCcJQgX9ORFvH98VuxLeeO2/s1600/Georgia+Pacific+BEFORE.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqSMtD0OwPIZO52R5GiRyxRFBZpD4E-UuATLBDZajLGSC90FifFxbtVxXs1nDQMk6JueJg7arDBkj_5zBLyoQjapY09dJ3CQYzAkxaRzThs-PuVNimicaUEVCcJQgX9ORFvH98VuxLeeO2/s1600/Georgia+Pacific+BEFORE.jpg" height="240" width="320" /> BEFORE</a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtKYEhNC6aPcweVvTzI6kFiqi0UwLZdy4O6WNOURHE0Qs3zywaIqTJDcOiTJL_fgqbK76MILcFeZhZ2FIeJbfH2FSbB4ZfLiXMnaqTXJvBDlKOWoVA1lO_3U_klhwEF6NaGNt-ltzNC5PA/s1600/Georgia+Pacific++AFTER.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtKYEhNC6aPcweVvTzI6kFiqi0UwLZdy4O6WNOURHE0Qs3zywaIqTJDcOiTJL_fgqbK76MILcFeZhZ2FIeJbfH2FSbB4ZfLiXMnaqTXJvBDlKOWoVA1lO_3U_klhwEF6NaGNt-ltzNC5PA/s1600/Georgia+Pacific++AFTER.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
AFTER</div>
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As mentioned in my last post, I received a Soundtraxx Tsunami Soundcar decoder, and have worked on a project to add sound to an older Atlas boxcar.<br />
The other item I wanted to try is to get some practice with weathering, which , truth be told, I still find a little daunting.<br />
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Here are some of the results. I've decided against graffiti in this instance, but a later model will probably get that added.<br />
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T Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02640155842325267145noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-710331004688267656.post-29720612955951596182014-08-20T04:15:00.002-07:002014-08-20T04:15:23.614-07:00Sound in freight and passenger cars<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
For sometime, sound decoders have been available for locomotives. The quality and variety of these is increasing gradually, and it was only a matter of time that these became available for cars.<br />
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While sound in cars is nothing new (Lionel amongst others, has been offering them for their models for a while now), the first commercially available sound (that I know of) for an HO scale model was the mechanical reefer released by Athearn last year. This decoder is now released as a separate available decoder by Soundtraxx, it is called the Tsunami Soundcar. While I have not found a dealer in the UK that stocks this one yet, I have ordered one from the US to try out, and have received it. I'm in the process of doing an installation of it in a HO scale 53' Atlas boxcar.<br />
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The decoder also has lighting outputs, bell and horn sounds , so it is also suitable to be used for a passenger cab car, mechanical reefer sounds etc. While this means that there's a lot in there that the majority of freight cars don't need, I doubt it would make a huge impact on price if the extra's weren't included.<br />
With a bit of creativity, it might fit in some N scale cars too.<br />
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Here are a few video's of what it can do.<br />
In a freight car.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/yaz2MzmS5Vc" width="420"></iframe><br />
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In use in a variety of cars:<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/qPYATGs0Bpc" width="420"></iframe><br />
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T Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02640155842325267145noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-710331004688267656.post-42253475667953169722014-07-24T02:42:00.001-07:002014-07-24T02:44:51.297-07:00SP GP9 <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
One of my latest modeling projects I finished a few months ago, I had not yet posted here.<br />
It is my SP GP9 commuter locomotive.<br />
Added details are light packages, steamgenerator exhausts, airvents, new roof vents, and several other small items. Of course it was equipped with a Loksound decoder with the new EMD 567 sound file and sounds great.<br />
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Here's a few pictures to enjoy.<br />
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T Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02640155842325267145noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-710331004688267656.post-87602672964458409152014-07-24T02:35:00.000-07:002014-07-24T02:35:45.499-07:00Updates<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
It's been a while that I've updated this blog.<br />
I simply had nothing to report. I also had my family holiday and work commitments that took away valuable work commitments.<br />
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Anyway, this coming August bank holiday weekend, I am part organising a modular railroading meet in my home town.<br />
Fellow NMRA-BR members from the area, aswell as others will join forces and set up a modest modular layout and 'play trains' together.<br />
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I've been working on my module ' Wolter Springs' the past weekend, making some repairs, and enhancements.<br />
I've had an electrical issue and also needed to improve the leg height adjustment range. That's now all done.<br />
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Further I've been weathering a few of the structures. See included photo. I know on the picture the warehouse looks rather 'stripey', but in real life it is actually not that bad. I will still tone it done with some dust coloured powders to remove some of the starkness (is that a word? ) .<br />
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T Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02640155842325267145noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-710331004688267656.post-80166931735504036022014-03-04T05:39:00.001-08:002014-03-04T05:43:53.375-08:00New Peco turnout control system<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Here's a youtube introduction video to the new Peco turnout motors and control systems called Smartswitch.<br />
A huge improvement over the old snap type motors. <br />
Smartswitch is a complete set of a control board, screws, mounting brackets and 4 servos.<br />
MFRP is £65,- , but I've seen it advertised at £55,- already, which makes this a very attractive set. Additional servos retail for about £13,95 each at this moment.<br />
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4nT3aO1jmU<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/D4nT3aO1jmU?rel=0" width="560"></iframe></div>
T Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02640155842325267145noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-710331004688267656.post-76650069525887369702014-02-13T09:52:00.000-08:002014-02-13T09:52:41.324-08:00New Look<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I decided to update the look of this blog with one of the new templates provided by Blogger.<br />
I'm sure I could make it look a bit better, but that is something I'll do another day.<br />
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The main reason for this update is so that the actual blog column is a bit wider, and is better capable of displaying the newer wide screen and HD Youtube video's, that didn't quite fit in the old design anymore.<br />
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I do need to look at the header picture, as it's not wide enough for my liking....<br />
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T Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02640155842325267145noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-710331004688267656.post-25576475427052295082014-02-10T12:30:00.002-08:002014-02-10T12:32:29.335-08:00Greely Freight station museum layout<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Enjoy!<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="280" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/hPEDD1tnDe0" width="425"></iframe><br />
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T Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02640155842325267145noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-710331004688267656.post-30530195333309097762014-01-26T00:37:00.003-08:002014-01-26T00:59:39.115-08:00Adding Posters to a structure wall and more<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Here's a nice tutorial of how to add posters to a building wall using just plain printed paper signs.<br />
The usual way of doing this is using decals. This tutorial shows it can be achieved in a simple way.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="425" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/7Tw56VcI56Q?list=PLB8440229C9D4AF81" width="425"></iframe><br />
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The product called Mod Podge is available in the UK in Hobbycraft stores, you'd want the matte version which can be purchased in 236ml containers for 4 pounds.<br />
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To get you started, here is a link to some signs, mostly aimed at 50's 60's modelers: <a href="http://s86.photobucket.com/user/usnvet76/library/signs?sort=2&page=1">Signs</a><br />
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If you let the video play on, there's also a tutorial on building vineyards and scratch building a shed.<br />
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T Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02640155842325267145noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-710331004688267656.post-10729869925140626032014-01-20T08:55:00.003-08:002014-01-20T08:55:43.473-08:00scratchbuild supplies<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Sometimes it is fun to build something completely from scratch, eventhough 'ready to roll' dominates the market, and not everyone likes (or has the time) to scratchbuild, or kitbash.<br />
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Yet from time to time there's something I'd like to try, but it's not always easy to get the parts you need.<br />
Thankfully Model Junction has recognised this too, and they're slowly expanding their range of scratchbuild materials. They've recently added Plastruct, and Evergreen styrene items.<br />
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Pay them a visit, order something, and make it worthwhile for them to keep sufficient stock in house, we can all benefit from that, and not having to rely on foreign orders here in the UK.<br />
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<a href="http://www.modeljunction.info/estore/index.php?cPath=157&sort=2a&page=2">Model Junction Scratchbuild supplies</a></div>
T Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02640155842325267145noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-710331004688267656.post-45998101322239834722014-01-20T08:21:00.000-08:002014-01-20T08:21:01.575-08:00OUPS......<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I thought I was nearly ready to apply dullcote to the shell and start weathering, but then I discovered something:<br />
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<span style="font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">I used the wrong WINGS!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">They should be a bit bigger,these are second gen diesel size (low short hood), looking through my drawers I don't have any in stock, so I've ordered the correct ones.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">What confused me is that the illustrations that came with the pack showed these applied to a high hood diesel too... </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I need an eye test...</span><br />
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T Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02640155842325267145noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-710331004688267656.post-52296531808306464502014-01-09T04:02:00.000-08:002014-01-09T04:02:32.968-08:00Winter scenery operations<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I recently came accross this video. You might be familiar with it. It is filmed on Mike Confalone's Allgash layout. <br />
It shows his very convincing late winter scenery. Looking at it , you can almost feel the near 0 degree temperatures, and makes a nice change from the usual summer grasses and blossoming trees you see so often.<br />
Also nice is the ALCo RS , with a nice engine sound, it made me want a model like that too, beaten up and weathered of course :-)<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="325" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/hbuGSGmNWaw" width="425"></iframe><br />
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T Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02640155842325267145noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-710331004688267656.post-86435713883990044512014-01-03T04:27:00.001-08:002014-01-03T04:27:09.474-08:00Happy New Year<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Hello all, I hope you've had a good christmas and wish you a very happy new year.<br />
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This new year has started fairly good on the hobby side of things for me.<br />
I've replaced a series of turnouts on my home layout to improve the looks and the performance of the trains.<br />
A mix of Peco and Shinohara was replaced by Code 83 Peco turnouts in US outline, while previously there were European style there too.<br />
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Secondly I've been working on one of my locomotive projects , a commuter GP9. I've detailed the shell and have now airbrushed it with a light grey primer. I'm hoping that I can continue painting this weekend.<br />
Here's a picture of it so far:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLmJdvX1F5y6iknxSORuTwSYl4TH0NA9JkmgQYnXMq92dp0vDt2fSJYENCaU6jdtz6U0au_vX_A9BviE7cvV8hi4qb8NOAsoWtNO1QSVB7ZwPtSS6Smk3bcbH61QKnzFS6E1I8uuNGSrY7/s1600/image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLmJdvX1F5y6iknxSORuTwSYl4TH0NA9JkmgQYnXMq92dp0vDt2fSJYENCaU6jdtz6U0au_vX_A9BviE7cvV8hi4qb8NOAsoWtNO1QSVB7ZwPtSS6Smk3bcbH61QKnzFS6E1I8uuNGSrY7/s320/image.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Another thing I've done is add two more links in the useful links section on the right. One is Clevermodels, which is a site where you can order and download cardstock models and building textures, and the other is a similar website with many freely downloadable textures to print on photo paper etc, also useful for scratchbuilding various buildings. You find this under 'textures for photo modeling'.<br />
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Hopefully this is useful for you.<br />
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Happy New Year!<br />
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T Jhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02640155842325267145noreply@blogger.com0